Playing Favorites: Mexico, India, Italy Edition
To recap, between January and May, we traveled to Mexico (Oaxaca, Guadalajara, Michoacan, Mexico City), India (Mumbai, Delhi, Aurangabad, Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Kerala), and Italy (Sicily, Naples, Ischia, Puglia).
As one might expect, friends keep asking what my/our favorite place has been so far. In truth, there are so many answers…
Favorite historical a-ha moments? Sicily, Guadalajara, Cochin, Ajanta & Ellora Caves. Favorite cities? Mexico City, Morelia, Cochin, Lecce, Naples. Favorite places to just chill? Salento, Ischia, Kerala backwaters, Casa Tiny. Favorite places to wander? Ortigia, Gallipoli, Jodhpur, Mumbai, Mexico City. Favorite holy experiences? Tamil Nadu, Indian churches of Michoacan, Good Friday in Trapani, football season in Naples. Most beautiful? Udaipur, Matera, Munnar. Most iconic? Taj Mahal, Casa Barragan, Pompeii. Best food? All of them! Most impactful? India, Michoacan, Sicily.
So, yes, they are all our favorites, and we’re okay with that. 🙂 More details below.
MEXICO FAVORITES
Lodging
Casa Tiny, Oaxaca Coast: Gorgeous tiny house… totally ensconced in jungly nature and only a few minutes from the pounding ocean.
La Perla Hotel, Guadalajara: Former mansion of Mexican film star Gloria Marin. The American & Guadalajaean hosts -- Lars & Guillermo -- are just lovely.
La Puerta Blanca, Morelia: We loved this beautiful B&B run by the former First Lady of Michoacan, and it’s well situated for roaming the under-rated charm of Morelia.
Activities
Michoacan’s Indian Churches: These beautiful yet modest wooden churches are the reason we decided to visit Michoacan. One needs a local guide & driver to visit so ask your hotel for help.
Jose Clemente Orozco murals, Guadalajara: Just don’t miss these! They have a power and darkness not matched by the other famous Mexican muralists.
José David Alfaro Siqueiros murals at Biblioteca Iberoamericana Octavio Paz, Guadalajara: We stumbled on this by accident and were once again reminded that Mexico has some of the most beautiful libraries we have ever seen.
Ceramica Suro, Guadalajara: This isn’t actually open for public tours but they collaborate with incredible artists and many restaurants in Guadalajara & CDMX feature their wares.
Museum of of Folk Arts, Patzcuaro: Great grounding in the wonderful crafts we were experiencing and seeing along our travels.
Casa Barragan, Mexico City: This was closed the last time we were in CDMX so it was our top priority for this time and did not disappoint. Our only regret is that we didn’t sign up to visit any of his other structures as well. Next visit!
Frank Mayer Museum, Mexico City: This was our first time at this museum and they had a great exhibition on women in Mexican design, as well as a lovely courtyard.
Shopping
Carmen Rion, Mexico City: Gorgeous clothes inspired by and incorporating Mexican textile crafts. Bring your credit card with the big credit limit!
Fabrica, Mexico City: Lovely little shop that works with artisans all over the country.
Meals
INDIA FAVORITES
Travel Co
India Someday: If you are planning to travel to India and feel even a little daunted by the logistics, I can’t recommend India Someday highly enough! They can flex to your needs (from lots to just a little hand holding), your interests (never would have thought of Tamil Nadu on our own), and your budget. Founded, owned and operated by Abbas Slatewala -- raised and still living in Mumbai. He & his staff made sure we had a wonderful trip. We would work with them again… with joy!
Lodging
Hotel Charnoud Garh, Chanoud, Rajasthan: A lovely oasis in the middle of our 5wk trip. We especially recommend the tour of the surrounding lands and agriculture, as well as a tour of the grounds with the family patriarch.
Ekaa Villa, Agra: A wonderful family run inn with a great restaurant & shop.
Saratha Villas, Chettinad, Tamil Nadu: A beautifully restored “Chettinad Mansion” without the bold colors, and a lovely shop with crafts from all over India.
Secret Garden, Cochin, Kerala: Tucked away just like a secret, we loved hanging out on the pool veranda, and it was just a short walk to interesting sights.
Spice Coast Cruises, Kerala Backwaters: A houseboat tour in Kerala was a top trip priority, and it was a beautiful experience.
Activities
Ajanta & Ellora Caves, Aurangabad: Incredible history, including religion, architecture, art, music, and human civilization. It was perfect grounding for our entire journey.
Kada Ghoda Arts Festival, Mumbai: We were lucky enough to catch this annual arts festival, enjoying several public art installations and a fabulous concert one night.
Kiran Nadar Museum, New Delhi: Contemporary art of the region and beyond. The Pop South Asia show was a trip highlight!
National Crafts Museum, New Delhi: Great art (esp textiles) and a great restaurant too.
Taj Mahal, Agra: Believe the hype. Do not miss.
Stepwells, Rajasthan: Fell in love with these ancient public works of phenomenal engineering and beauty.
Jaipur Walking Tours, Jaipur, Rajasthan: Kumar is a Jaipur native, and a very friendly, knowledgeable tour guide.
Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing, Jaipur, Rajasthan: At the base of the main fort, this lovely museum also happens to be located in a beautiful old haveli (mansion).
Block printing class at Creatis, Jaipur, Rajasthan: We had so much fun making our own scarves here!
Shashi Cooking Class, Udaipur, Rajasthan: A super fun evening where we learned to cook, while hanging out with Shashi and her lovely family, three generations strong.
Great Chola Temples, Tamil Nadu. The carvings and frescoes on these temples were simply magnificent, and they are still in active use today.
Ayyanar Temples, Chettinad, Tamil Nadu: We fell in love with these humble clay horse offerings that can be found all over the Chettinad area.
Foodies Day Out, Madurai, Tamil Nadu: Of our many food tours, this was our absolute favorite. The variety of tastes, smells, and settings kept us enthralled all evening.
Munnar Tea Plantations, Kerala: Gorgeous carpets of green in every direction. And so much interesting labor and political histories embeded in that soil too.
Paradesi Synagogue & Jew Town, Cochin, Kerela: Loved Cochin -- a crossroads city of many different cultures and histories.
Kathakali Kerala Center, Cochin, Kerala: While their Kathakali theater show is rightly popular, we also enjoyed a much less well-attended show of classical Indian music.
Kochi Biennale, Cochin, Kerala: We lucked into the right timing for this biennale and learned so much about the Indian Ocean art, trade & people, ancient to contemporary.
Shopping
Anokhi Shops, various cities: We visited their store for fun handblock printed fashion in every major city, and have the wardrobe to prove it!
Saratha Villas Boutique, Chettinad, Tamil Nadu: Such wonderful items and my favorites were the Kantha scarves made from old saris… I wish I had bought more than two.
National Crafts Museum Shop, New Delhi: The artisans market in the courtyard had so many beautiful items for sale.
Meals
See Steve’s post: https://sweetieadventures.substack.com/p/the-sweeties-fave-indian-meals
SOUTHERN ITALY FAVORITES
Lodging
Cefalu Airbnb, Cefalu, Sicily: Right by the roaring sea and near everything else.
Stanze al Genio B&B, Palermo, Sicily: Beautiful rooms with museum quality tiles on display, and delicious arancini at breakfast every morning
Fattoria Mose B&B, Agrigento, Sicily: Our only agri-turismo stay & such a treat to walk among the ancient olive trees every morning. We also loved dinners with other guests.
Rural Noto Airbnb, Noto, Sicily. Another lovely stay on an olive farm with a very generous and knowledgeable host -- she gave us great tips.
Hotel Gutnowski, Ortigia, Sicily: Located in the beautiful old town section of Siracusa, we loved our room overlooking the sea.
Atelier Ines B&B, Naples: Ines and her staff took wonderful care of us, and the rooms are gorgeous. Also, it is near everything but in an actual neighborhood where locals live.
Palazzo Royal Hotel, Lecce, Puglia: The rooftop! Beautiful rooms! Great location!
Hotel il Monastero, Ischia: The castle is a thing unto itself… probably our most special stay for the whole trip!
Cute Towns (Just look them up!)
Sicily: Cefalu, Erice, Noto, Ragusa, Ortigia
Puglia: Matera, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Otranto, Tricase, Gallipoli
Activities
Uncovered Sicily, Sicily: Highly recommend them for tours. We did the ones for Palermo & Monreale as well as Ortigia & Siracusa.
Streaty: Great street food tours. We did the ones in Palermo & Naples.
Museo delle Maioliche "Stanze al Genio", Palermo, Siciliy: Beautiful tiles from all over Italy, and so enriching to better understand their complex histories. By appt only.
Antonio Pasqualino International Puppet Museum, Palermo: Puppets play a big role in Italian folk culture, so happy we stopped by on our very first day in Palermo.
Cretto di Burri, Old Gibellina, Sicily: One of the most moving land art installations I have ever experienced. A testament to human loss, resilience, and creativity.
Villa Romana del Casale, Piazza Armerina, Siciliy: Just gorgeous. Do not miss!
Turkish Steps, Agrigento, Sicily: Pro-tip, you can climb the steps once the guard leaves around 6pm. They are especially lovely at sunset.
Pompeii, Naples area: Again… Believe the hype. Do not miss.
The Awaiting Table, Lecce, Puglia: The oldest cooking school in Lecce, we loved Silvestro’s fish class -- including visits to local markets & fascinating history lessons.
Negombo Thermal Springs, Ischia: While we did not have a chance to visit others, we feel safe in saying that Negombo is the best because of the natural setting, misty caves, and tropical landscaping. Combine it with a stop at the nearby La Motella Gardens.
The Aragonese Castle, Italy: It’s a castle, what’s not to love?! (Ok, plenty…)
Meals
So, you now have lots of tips for a fantastic holiday in central Mexico, several regions in India, and southern Italy! ENJOY!!!
As always… If you want to see more photos or read brief missives on different areas we visited and things we experienced, please check out my instagram posts from January to May.